Dont Buy CHEAP Anchor Chain!! | Anchor Chain Windlass & Locker Tips |  Patrick Childress Sailing #50

Dont Buy CHEAP Anchor Chain!! | Anchor Chain Windlass & Locker Tips | Patrick Childress Sailing #50


time has come to rip out all that
water-saturated balsa under the windlass put the foredeck back together stronger
than ever before which we did in the last video and now we get to reinstall
the windlass with all the little details involved the best of all we get to put
on our brand new create since Maggi chain which was made in Italy hello we are Patrick and Rebecca
Childress on the 40 foot valiant sailboat Brickhouse don’t you laugh at
that name we are putting this boat back together far better and stronger than
when it came out of the factory in 1976 I want to show you a little bit of the
neighborhood that we have to deal with and the things out here they caused us a
few headaches I admire anybody who can restore about
inside of a shed or garage but the rest of us cruisers have to deal with all the
other boats that are around us all of their sanding dust plus they they get to
deal with all of our sanding dust yes so we are pretty well compact in here but
we aren’t going anywhere for a few months but this is the biggest problem
right up here in a stormy southwest wind these casuarina trees commonly known
as Australian Pines spread their needles everywhere and make a terrible mess
of our sailboats just last night before the storm hit
I had scrubbed our sailboat decks with detergent in scrub brush and a lot of
water to get them clean and all of that was for naught soon our decks will be looking just like
our neighbor’s decks South Africa is a big coal producing exporting country and
they put coal onto ships just a few miles to our southwest
so with these stormy southwest winds we get a dusting of coal dust and this was
just white glove clean last night and so this is only the first layer so during
these videos you’re gonna see this boat in a real dark mess I don’t wash it
every day that’s useless so when you see the decks kind of looking grody it’s all
from the coal dust so with that west wind it isn’t just the
pine needles and all that terrible cold us but all these little pinecones and
I’ll tell you walking around these decks barefoot they could really get you
hopping you’re not careful so we’ll get this deck cleaned up a little bit and
let’s get started on putting the windlass back together so we need to
drill holes for the four bolts the chain pipe and also the electricals but let’s
back up a little bit before I ever made the use repairs I plugged up the
existing holes with butyl I could have used modeling clay or just about
anything else because I don’t want rezident fiberglass to fill up these
holes I want the exact placement to stay the same when I reinstall the windlass
and I’ll be able to drill up through the bolt holes and use those for placing the
windlass back on top of the newly repaired deck and then I’ll just use
pencil marks to mark the location of the holes for the chain pipe and also the
electrician so the bull holes I drilled up from
inside out and for these larger holes using the hole saw
I don’t want to have to go inside and have all that just and everything
falling down in my face so I’m cheating a little bit and drilling everything
from the top side down you should really drill in the top side
down and then once the pilot bit breaks through drill from the opposite
direction it makes much less friction on the hole
saw and makes the whole operation much faster than easier actually so it took
just a little sanding with the drum sander on the drill to straighten out
the chain pipe and also to ease over the edges where the wires can be coming up
through the wire pipe while the aluminum backing plates are out this is a great
time to grind them down to bare metal and prime and paint them get them ready
to reinstall we have three backing plates two
aluminum and one polyethylene to install the three quarter inch polyethylene
board adds very little strength to the backing plates but it is a very good
surface for mounting wire ties and also the splash curtain and it’s time to go
in on my back through the tiny access door in the B birth lay on my back on a
pile of chain where you do become very nose to nose with the work to be done
since the underside of the deck was never flattened level I always had to
use wooden shims to fill up any voids in those areas well this time I decided to
rep that’s my backing plate in plastic as a release agent and then mix up a lot
of thickened epoxy thickened with Cabosil a very fine silica and then
smeared that underneath that deck or onto the decking and then squished that
first plate up into place and then it was held in place with self-tapping
screws up into the fiberglass deck it is very nice to see the glue squeezing out
around the edges so now I know I have a nice even full contact throughout the
full area of this first backing plate so now the second layer of backing plate
goes on and that’s held in place with even longer self tapping screws that go
into the fiberglass so that it doesn’t come crashing down in my face while I’m
putting all together and there’s still more prep work to do before we can put
everything together the Lofrans Tigres windlass requires the gear oil to
be changed every four years the only way in the world to do that is to take the
whole windlass out of the boat and turn it upside down and let it drain for a
while so this is the perfect time to do it this two and a quarter inch high
mounting block will bring the Gipsy high enough so it’ll be equal with the height
of the bow roller so the chain links will have full contact inside of the
Gypsy no caulk or sealant that I know if sticks very well to polyethylene but
butyl in a caulking gun tube does a pretty darn good job of sealing that
mounting block to the deck especially when bolted down and I’ll also be using
butyl to seal the bottom of the windlass to the
mounting block we have oversized electrical wires on this windlass and
they’re very stiff and very hard to pull up through the tight turns in the holes
coming up underneath the motor so working by myself I really cock up the
ends of the bolts shove them down into the mounting holes and then tighten up
with vice grips to hold the bolt in place while I go down below and put the
nuts on and secure them so once all the bolts are all tightened up I can make
the electrical connections those wires have to come underneath the motor and
then up if they come along the side at all there won’t be enough room for the
cover to fit back on but this is when I clean up with all the contact points for
the gasket to fit on the housing in on the windlass itself and since I don’t
have a new gasket from Lou friends I can make my own out of a little piece of
thin rubber regular contact cement will hold
everything in place a diesel mechanic once told me don’t ever use silicone on
a rubber gasket I don’t remember his reason why but I have always used
silicone on this gasket and I have never had any leaks and I want to make sure I
never do I can’t afford salt water getting into this motor since we are switching from 5/16 inch anchor
chain to 3/8 inch chain which is more in line for this 14 ton boat we had to
get a new gypsy to match the new chain we did not want Anchor chain made in China as
practical sailor magazine says there’s some very good Chinese made anchor chain and
other Chinese made anchor chain that is not Not suitable at all and the problem is none
of it is marked so you don’t know what you’re getting. Rebecca did a ton of
research and we finally decided to go with Maggi chain made in Italy and we
ordered it through Maggi chain USA Maggi chain USA was extremely helpful getting
this chain to us in Africa at a reasonable cost
the thing about Maggi chain is it’s stamped every 3 feet or so every meter
or so with MCIT which means Maggi chain Italy so we know where it was made we
know what we are getting and we also got a test certificate to show that this
chain meets all of its specified strengths and other characteristics if
the seller of a chain can’t give a cert for that chain and if the chain is not
marked with the manufacturers stamp then there’s just too many uncertainties for
me to be dealing with a product like that before loading 300 feet of chain
into our chain lockers I first painted the first 20 feet of chain with red
paint this would be a warning indicator so if we’re running out a lot of chain
I’ll be aware that I don’t have much left we marked the chain every 50 feet
with colored wire ties we have two anchor chain lockers 150 feet goes
underneath the V berth and another hundred and fifty feet goes in the main
chain Locker just below the windlass first we tie a green safety line to an
iPad inside of the v-berth locker it comes up through a pipe into the upper
chain Locker and out through the deck pipe of the windlass and here the green
line gets tied to the red part of the anchor chain in case of an emergency and
we have to detach ourselves from that anchor chain we can easily cut this line
and on our way with Rebecca down in the v-berth feeding
the chain into that area we get everything loaded on board right now
inside of the upper anchor Locker we just have some rubber front door welcome
mats to help protect the fiberglass from the galvanized chain but this is what we
will be replacing those welcome mats with a nice draining mat that allows
water to flow underneath it air flow all around it and that’ll help to keep the
anchor Locker dry and help protect the fiberglass in that area I’ve made this
curtain out of sail cloth just mold sail cloth I mean a plastic shower curtain
some old plastic would do just as well as long as it’s heavy but I’m gonna hang
this up on the inside here and drape down so that’ll help to keep the
splashing water from the chain in here from slamming up against this door and
trying to escape I’ve had to rework this door and give a bevel just like you
would on a windowsill of a house so it watersheds back in and all of this has
been glued with the thickened epoxy just to seal the in grain of the wood over
the decades this marine plywood bulkhead had
deteriorated and inside one of the laminates of ply was just peeling off
it’s just falling apart it was never finished never painted or anything
because it’s such a high humidity what could possibly happen it had to fall
apart so I went inside I took out this chain plate took out the windlass got
everything out of here so I could work and then peel back that one ply of
plywood completely out of here I was able to get it out and away from
underneath the tabbing so that really wasn’t too disturbed
I got everything out of here and then put in a sheet of fiberglass is very
thin fiberglass it’s finished on the outside with white gel coat and just raw
fiberglass on the inside so I glued that this up with thickened epoxy I used some
screws to help hold it in place until it was all set and I didn’t care what it
looked like it cosmetics inside here it didn’t matter
so I wasn’t that neat with the epoxy the seams I wanted epoxy to come
slipping out any of the seams and the joins I crammed thinking epoxy down here
behind the tabbing so I was able to reuse that and glue everything back in
place and so now it’s gonna last so chain played it back in here oh this is
one important thing too is this little handle for getting in and out of this
place upside down I can hang on to it and then swing myself in on my back
without this little handle it’s extremely difficult to get into this
tight confines so now with that curtain made out of the old sail cloth I’ll be
screwing it up to polyethylene I’ll screw it up on the ceiling over here and
that’ll help to keep water off of all these connections for the up/down
switches for the windlass and all the other wires over on this side and of
course water from getting through to the inside of the bieber’s everything is
read tabbed actually didn’t even have tabbing up here on the ceiling when the
boat was built there was no tabbing between the ceiling and this bulkhead
but there is no but everything is very tabbed in allowing the whole ceiling in
this wall joint and that was several years ago there’s no cracks everything
is looking good so this repair is in good shape and it’s
going to last a long time ripped off a full layer of plywood here
all the way back to the left and to the right all the way down to the bottom
took all these trim strips out and then that made everything a lot easier to get
to and it’s all fiberglass now at least one layer it never made much sense to me
to have a chain plate bolted to a bare plywood bulkhead chain plates are
notorious for leaking and damaging wood so I feel far better now having this
bulkhead treated and insulated from any potential water intrusion from the chain
plate Oh sealed in with thickened epoxy on the sides on the ceiling but you know
also on the starboard side here so this is getting almost to the finish
point I’ll hang that curtain now inside here and then get ready to rework the
door I’m gonna have a new door here and put Formica
on both sides plastic laminate Formica as a brand name plastic laminate is the
generic name oops there’s one more thing to do before getting out of the chain
Locker completely and that is to take some wire ties and put them on as drip
stops there’s not enough room or wire to have drip loops so we’ll put these wire
ties up here any water that comes off of that chain from slopping around in here
it won’t run down the wire to places that I don’t want it to go so we also
have some wire ties way down here at the end so that water can’t run back through
this hole and to the inside of the boat there’s one more thing before we can
close up this project and that is to drill an angled hole in the door so that
water will run back into the chain Locker and also give some ventilation so
it isn’t such a confined locked up space we’ll have a vent that’s pointed up on
the outside and on the inside of the chain Locker a vent(louvre) that’s pointed down
to help keep the water in and the air flow going and of course the inside
perimeter of that hole is going to get a good coat of resin finally we can close
the door on this one and move on to the next project hey don’t stop watching now
because there are some little neighbors of ours that you’re gonna see pretty
soon and they’re pretty cute you’ll enjoy that if you liked the video please
give it a thumbs up down below and also subscribe if you want to see more of
these videos oh also down in the description down below there’s a tip jar
so if you care to contribute to that that would be great and also there’s
some links some of our affiliate links start your Amazon shopping or your West
marine shopping down there and also there’s a NauticEd link to 2 free
sailing courses definitely worthwhile even if you just take the two free ones
ok thanks a lot for watching and we’ll see you soon!

60 thoughts on “Dont Buy CHEAP Anchor Chain!! | Anchor Chain Windlass & Locker Tips | Patrick Childress Sailing #50

  1. Just picked up an 82 Hunter Cherubini for super cheap. First thing on the list in the spring is fixing some soft spots in the deck. Good to see how well yours went back together.

  2. Very nice work Patrick. It's really informative to see what you're doing to refit your boat. After 40 yrs you know what works and what doesn't. I'm currently building a boat and have been working on the anchor lockers. It's almost uncanny that all of what you've done to refit your anchor locker I have either done or are planning to do to my build. Thank you very much for sharing. Cheers! Rick www.she-kon.com

  3. Great video! Love the discussion on the finer points of detail on this project. It turned out to be a bigger job than I would have expected, but I see why. Very well done.

  4. Those wiretie drip thingy was a good tip. But holy old boat Batman, she's a lot of work. I can't figure out if enjoy working on boats or if you enjoy miserable difficult challenges. All the best, hope you get out on the water soon.

  5. The wire ties as drip lines was new to me. I have used drip lines on my hammock while camping. I truly appreciate the techniques and info in your videos.

  6. It doesn't matter where cheap rubbish is made, it's still rubbish. High end Chinese goods have a great reputation and can compete globally with any other countries products. For example MCC GROUP FAR EAST in Ningbo, China is part of the Maggi group and has a reputation for making very good chain. I personally have a Lofrans Chinese made chain that has served me flawlessly for many years, and cost about $8 less per meter than an equivalent Maggi chain. It pays to shop wisely, but I wouldn't dismiss Chinese manufactures because many have very good products at a substantial savings.

  7. Great step by step on windless install. It's amazing how boat builders have done the, "out of sight, out of mind" or "I can't see it from my house" model in build quality especially in hard to get to areas. Great "water mitigation" with adding water shedding materials in the chain locker, I like your zip tie drip points….. Cheers you two, hopefully you'll be back to cruising soon with new "bricks added to Brickhouse", metaphorically speaking, haha, ya gotta love monkeys!

  8. Good video as allways.
    One tip. Don't run your video description or title with a translator for finnish language. They don't work and every finn speaks english! πŸ˜‰

  9. Great to see the anchor locker ship shape. Kind of eerie seeing all the yellow glow spots from inside the anchor locker from all external patch repairs that you made to the hull. The zip tie drip lines are a great tip! Your philosophy on the anchor chain for the boat is the same as mine for tires on my car. Good quality tires are what give you traction and stopping power – cheap tires work but sooner or later they will let you down in a pinch. I bet those cute little monkeys are a pest in the marina – I am sure they would make a mess of the inside of the boat if they ever got in! Enjoyed the video. Take care Patrick and Rebecca!

  10. I don't know how you get any work done with the all that monkeyin' around. Great job and keep the videos coming.

  11. @Patrick Childress Sailing _ The Coal Dust in Richards Bay is a walk in the park of what you're going to get in East London… The Harbour is right next to the IRON ORE loading bay! Talk about Staining your decks, man o man… instant rust all over!! _

  12. 6:13. If the windlass is installed, instead of uninstalling it, why couldn’t you suck the oil out with one of those little manual pumps?

  13. Hi Patrick !
    That's are a beautiful and professional job, you can easy start a vintage remodeling boat business Down Here in Florida !!! πŸ€”

  14. Good security boots! Sometimes I also wear these, safety first!!!!! For those of you who don't know, no one works steel better than in countries surrounded by the Alps.

  15. Very good video – again! If the windless has to be removed in 4 years to change the oil. It looked like you β€œglued” and bolted it down, how will you remove it to change the oil? After you unbolt it won’t it still be well fixed to the boat?

  16. the great thing about these vlogs is I always walk away with a handy new tip – this weeks chestnut; cable ties on leads to stop drips. Gracias amigo

  17. It is great to see that you are checking the specs on chain! I appreciate your pragmatic approach to the work and purchases you make. It is good to see you guys taking the time to look at the requirements for a safety item and making sure it will preform properly. Nicely done!

  18. One good idea from makes it worth the watch. SEVERAL good ideas makes it pure gold. Thanks again Patrick and Rebecca.
    Another sailing channel bought G4 stamped chain in Panama and were ripped off. It has rusted out and they haven't made it all the way across the Pacific yet (granted they aren't in any hurry). It pays to not be in a hurry and to do your research.

  19. Once again an informative video that helps me with my future endeavours I have been pondering anchor chain and all that goes with it and the chain locker the curtain is a great idea cheers from Australia all the best love your Valiant

  20. Here is why we did not wait for our chain to completely fail… this is one of Sailing Uma’s videos…https://youtu.be/0eehuwOpHfI, where they most likely had either REALLY old chain or REALLY cheap chain…the kind we are advocating against. If you can’t get good chain where you end up needing it, what do you do? We think you should get things like this BEFORE you need them or where it can be shipped in easily, instead of waiting where you are probably gonna get taken for a ride because there is no competition.
    We purchased ours from http://www.MaggiChainUSA.com, and they found a semi economical way to ship it in. We got what we wanted, from a company with a good reputation, excellent service, and a superior product. You definitely get what you pay for! Be so careful before you simply buy whatever chain you can buy, for the cheapest price! -Rebecca

  21. Silicone sealant uses acetic acid as a plasticiser – the diesel mechanic will have been concerned about the acid eating into the metal, rather than it affecting the gasket.

    It's a common problem in the car world where someone has tried to bodge a window seal with silicone sealant, what happens is the frame then rots out from the acid and you end up with a much bigger job on your hands than you would if you'd just replaced the rubber instead!

    The 'best' sealant you could use would be red brake grease, since that's formulated not to attack the rubber, silicone grease will also work because it doesn't contain acetic acid, as will black mastic, however mastic may contain mineral oils which will attack the rubber.

  22. Vary nice job. πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘

  23. I've always been a huge fan of Valiant 40's. If you could change one or two things about the design to improve it, curious what you would change.

  24. I agree with using Maggi chain. And always use the best swivels and shackles, and the largest size that will fit on your chain. Your boat and your life depend on reliable ground tackle.

  25. I love watching your channel. !
    In the mid to late 70’s and 80’s, I worked for Valiant Yachts in Bellingham as a carpenter. Very likely worked on your boat when under construction. Most of my career was involved in boat building and restoration.
    I’m so interested in necessary modifications as you cruise Brickhouse around the world. The blister issue is a given for other reasons but has enabled many to take advantage of a well designed boat at an affordable price to pursue their dreams.
    I look forward to future adventures
    Bfree Chenega
    SV Fascination

  26. what grade ( not size) of maggi chain did you buy? whats your thoughts on titan chain from canada? im tossing up between the two manufatcurers.

  27. (@133:30) Patrick, what I have found to be perfect for protection and also quite cheap is the Teflon cutting boards used in kitchens (The very thin stuff that flexes to conform to the shape of the hull) and then on top (Or onboard) of that, a layer of tough Neoprene rubber and then another layer of the cutting board Teflon this gives great protection as well as good sound insulation. Only down side is cutting the hole around the chain locker overboard drain hole. You can bond this sandwich together with Silicone, or Butyl, but it’s not compulsory…
    The other thing I do is use a snap shackle as your emergency bitter end release (Which can have a long, stainless wire lanyard, reaching externally with a handle on it). Some classification societies insist on this external emergency release, depending on what type of vessel and what the vessel is used for and where…

  28. I have a question on wire protection, are wiring ducts ever used on a boat to protect the wires (plastic and can flex and wires are easily pulled out of the main bundle to go to electrical devices). Seems like a cheap way to get rid of wiring rats nests and thousands of zip ties (people leaving the old wires in as who can confront all those zip tied bundles off then on). Hope I made sense. Not the first time I have heard of misbranded stainless sometimes a magnet will stick to stainless–and that is not stainless.

  29. I'm not familiar with Maggi chain, but did you consider Peerless ACCO g4 chain? I'm about to purchase some Peerless, so I would be interested in any concerns with it. BTW, I LOVE the tie-wrap wire drip idea. Brilliant! I used triple tie-wraps along an in mast cable to limit cable slap in the mast.

  30. Thanks for the chain info will definitely consider Maggi chain for my build in NZ. I am at the end of a visit to the KZN South coast at the moment (Uvongo 320 km S of you), seeing those vervet monkeys playing with the shopping bag highlights the disturbing amount of litter that seems to blow about all over here in SA. Hope they ban those bags soon. You seem to be getting a lot of work behind you. Thank you for sharing your videos of it all. Do you know if anyone has ever tried antifouling their anchor chain, if so was it worth while?

  31. Hi guy's, just watched your video. Is that a metal boat next to your boat. It's all rusted. Thanks for sharing πŸ˜πŸ‘πŸ‡ΏπŸ‡¦

  32. New Subscriber. Great job, many people don't put much effort in their anchor chain etc. The only thing I would have done is finish that entire area with 4 coats of high gloss white paint. GOOD LUCK GUYS, STAY SAFE. Vinny πŸ‡ΊπŸ‡Έ

  33. I have watched all you videos guys so I will be impatient from now on for the notification of your upcoming instalments. It's always the same after binge watching a channel. I have thoroughly enjoyed watching your progress. πŸ˜ŠπŸ’šπŸ‘πŸ€

  34. Drain your oil with a oil pump – easy to rig a 12 Volt scavenge pump – useful for your engine and gearbox too – any auto shop would stock these.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *